Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
