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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their humble place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.